Foz Do Iguacu, Brazil: A Review

Foz do Iguacu is a magical place of beautiful waterfalls on the 3-way border between Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina. According to everyone I met here in Brazil and abroad who has been this way, it is a sight not to be missed. So I figured that since it was on my way from Brazil to Bolivia anyway (since I'm going through Assuncion, Paraguay) I had better stop and check it out. I left Florianopolis at 2:35 yesterday afternoon, on a fairly comfortable, if crowded, bus. I spent the next 19 hours alternatively trying to converse in Portinol with my neighbor, listening to my iPod, watching Mission: Impossible (terrible), and, eventually, sleeping fitfully in a vicodin haze, waking every time we stopped (which was often) and when I was extremely cold due to the crazy refrigerator-like air conditioning these buses invariably use. But finally, at 8:25 this morning, we arrived. I was really confused at first because I looked at my little alarm clock thing and it said we were two hours later than I thought we were supposed to be, but the women in the next seat over assured me that no, I hadn't slept through the Foz and wound up in Paraguay (as I feared), we were just late. This was actually a bit of a relief for me, because I had been worried that 5 hours of sleep wouldn't be enough, but by the time we rolled in I had gotten close to 7, which is a much more healthy and reasonable amount to get, I think. So even though I was groggy, I figured with a little bit of caffeine I'd be all set to hike lots of beautiful jungle trails and spend a nice day totally by myself in nature, for a change.
So I checked my luggage at the bus station after confirming that there are, in fact, evening buses I could take to Paraguay tonight, and got myself on the bus to the falls.
I guess I knew I was in trouble when I first saw the theme park- like entrance to the Falls. I scanned the various price lists, noting the tiered system: Brasilieros pay one price, citizens of neighboring countries another, and the rest of us a third, and highest price to get in. This is fair enough, I suppose, since really I don't think Brasilieros should have to pay at all, since it is after all a National Park, in Brazil. Nonetheless, even the cheaper rate of R$13 for them was pretty steep, I though, and the R$ 20.50 I had to pay was really over the top. But I had come all this way and I wasn't going to turn back now on account of being a total cheapskate. No, I told myself: even if it sucks, the only way I won't regret it is if I go in and see for myself. After all, I had come all this way.
So I paid the money, and was even cheerful about it, since I was sure that it would be worth it once I was in the jungle, hiking around and looking at all the waterfalls. I was hoping it would be like one of the amazing national parks I visited earlier this year in Australia- the one I'm thinking of was particularly gorgeous, with fast-flowing streams and natural pools that, if you dared, you could get into and out of again before being sucked down one of the many rapids. Monica, Jak and I spent hours in that jungle, climbing and swinging in trees, exploring all the different paths shooting off from the main one, wading in the calmer waters and climbing the bridges over the fiercer ones. I was hoping for something like this.
My second warning sign was when I discovered that you can't actually just "go for a hike" to the falls- you have to get on a bus (the cost of which makes up R$ 5.50 of your entrance fee) and be driven there. Still, though, looking at the map and seeing 2 other trails in addition to the main one to the waterfalls, I had hope. I went with everyones else to see the falls first. They let us off the bus and we scrambled out, and I quickly made my way onto the wide, very well-maintained concrete path, which was also equipped with handrails, making it great for folks with mobility issues, but bad for someone who really wants to get a good workout (which I really, really did). The first thing I saw was a cute, raccoon-like creature snuffling around in the brush before he or she noticed that I was trying to take a picture and started ambling away. I thought that was pretty neat, but as I continued down the path I soon realized that these little guys were EVERYWHERE, and many were not nearly as shy as that first one. So of course, being me, I had my camera out and was desperately snapping away for like 20 minutes as I inched my way down the path, trying to get some good shots. It was sort of ridiculous. Anyway, eventually I left the poor creatures alone and continued along, and soon came to the first part of the falls, which were, in fact, really beautiful. There were rapids, and huge cliffs, and even numerous parts where you could see rainbows. Out came the camera again, and after another hour or so of relentless photographing, I was ready to really hit the other trails and do some hiking.
The problem was, when I got off the bus at the first of the other 2 trailheads and started walking, I was promptly stopped by an employee of the "safari tour" company and informed that I wasn't allowed to go on the trail unless it was as part of the paid safari, which was NOT included in the entry fee. I was just like, "are you kidding me? This is a National Park! Why is a private company allowed to monopolize an entire huge section of what is supposed to be a public place?" He seemed vaguely sympathetic, but was firm, adding that it could be "dangerous" if I went in alone, so finally I gave up and ended up just walking for about an hour in the broiling sun along the side of the paved tar road until I got to the next bus stop. The other trail was the same deal, so by that point I was hungry, dejected and ready to go.
So I guess in the end, I'm glad I went because I know that if I didn't I would feel like I had missed something incredible. But really, if I had to do it all over again (knowing what I know now), I would probably skip it. I know it sounds bratty, but as much as I love nature I've seen a lot of places that are equally as beautiful but without the overwhelmingly capitalist slant that was the entire experience. Everything from the food to entry to the postcards was way expensive, and for that I expected more in terms of actual interactive things to do. Instead it's just another place that, sadly, has managed to turn experiencing nature into just another spectator event.